Hi y’all. Since Dickey has maidened I decided I wanted to do one more project before I attempt to overhaul my garage workshop. I’m thinking I’ll be down a month or more if I get done what I want to get done. In that vein, I’ve decided to attempt another Springer tug. Some years ago I built one before I really had ballasting down right..she ran okay, but I kept messing around with the ballast, epoxying it in, and when I tried to remove it to make changes I severely damaged the hull. So, I removed all equipment, fittings, etc and scrapped the hull. I’ve been wanting another go at it, so I ordered the Zippkits tugster, just the kit no hardware, and started to lick my calf over (old country phrase for a “do-over”)🤣
I built the hull proper per the instructions, and that’s where that ends. I’m using a 4mm shaft, the smaller Robbe/Krick Kort nozzle, and a home made stuffing box. She will be powered by my fave working boat motor, the Zippkits 650 kv outrunner fed by 2 6 cell nimh in parallel.
My stuffing box is made up of a thick wall brass tube that accepts a Traxxas 4mm i.d flanged oilite bushing. The bushing is tapped in with a hammer, and I use an old 4mm shaft to make sure the bushings stay aligned as I install the other bushing. The 1mm thick wall allows me to drill a hole the same size as the brass I’m using for an oiling tube. I’ll grind down the fitted end just a bit to get a decent, thight mechanical joint. That way when I silver solder it in place it stays put and is a good strong joint. The reason I’m so picky is that I use a mini grease gun from Horizon Hobbies, I can old it in place and pump, and I get just a wee bit of grease showing at the bushing under pressure, that way I know darn well it’s full.
I used part of the keel parts to fit the tube, cutting it shorter to allow me to swing the Kort nozzle hard over to make it easier to change props without removing the Kort nozzle, depending on the size of the prop. I cut an oversized slot for the tube as I use solid couplers, and with the motor fitted I could get everything lined up and tack the tube in place with ca, that way I have no binding. I don’t like using universal joint couplers unless I really have to. I get my couplers from Servo City, as they are steel, use larger socket screws, and don’t have any runout. Very solid.
The kit uses a radio plate to to mount the servo, receiver and esc. I cut that down and built up a servo mount, and it’s installed on the same bulkhead shown in the manual, but I mounted it to the fwd side vs the aft as in the instructions. My deck opening is going to be different. I’m using Dubro pushrods, but good old Amazon was out of the ones with metal quick links, so I ordered the ones with nylon. I dug thru my junk box of hardware that I have been collecting since 95 or so, and I found gold!! A few Dubro and Sullivan threaded metal clevises, and some solder clevises too. I mounted the servo, made sure everything worked correctly, then uninstalled everything and gave the inside of the bow and transom and the bottom of the hull a coat of 30 minute epoxy.
That’s where she’s at now. I’m thing I’ll spray the rest of the inside of the hull with clear lacquer ro finish waterproofing, then I have to make a decision. I dont know if I need to glass this thing, or maybe glass the bottom and the just seal and paint the heck out of the sides, or….I’ve also heard that some people just epoxy coat the outer ull with thinned epoxy, then prime and paint. She’s gonn be a working boat, used as an emergency push boat when needed, so she needs to last…if I can get her ballasted properly this time, that is…🤣🤣
Cash

Hi y’all. I’ve decided not to glass the hull of the Springer, from what I’ve read most people don’t, so I gave her a good painting of 30 minute epoxy inside, and 3 coats of lacquer based sanding sealer outside, sanding between coats. Had to leave after each coat to let dry and get away from the fumes before I started having conversations with Elvis.🤣 Anyway, once that was done I reinstalled my equipment, same as before except I moved the esc on the fwd side of the bulkhead for easier access.
I work in a Ford dealer in Frisco Texas. We got a new battery rack from our vendor who services GM dealers as well. When the rack came in it was supplied with flat decorative panels advertising AC-Delco (GM) batteries. My boss asked if I could use the panels for building models, I took a look and said sure!!! I went home with about 6 foot by 2 foot of 2.5 mm plasticard!!
So, I had decided going in my Springers deck was going to be plastic, and my hatch/superstructure opening was going to be smaller. So, once I had everything measured to my liking, I flipped it over and laid in reinforcing wood strips, as well as outlining the hatch openings with wood to give the coaming more area to glue to. I used parts for the kit that were originally for the stock hatch and cut them down to glue to the inner hull sides, bow and transom to give the deck more gluing area, then glued it down with 15 minute epoxy. Once cured I trimmed and sanded the edges. I also test lubed my stuffing box with my little grease gun. I was able to get enough pressure that the grease oozed out of each end with the shaft installed and connected to the motor. That’s what I try to accomplish with all my boats..it’ll be easier to build a more rugged greasing tube with the soldering rig I have now.
That’s where I’m at now, I just have to design the 2 hatches and decide what wheelhouse style I want, and then start cutting plastic.

Hi y’all. I had to fill in for my coworker last Saturday, and we ran models that Sunday, so very little work done till late this week and some this weekend. I did get the push knees made up Sunday afternoon, these consist of 6 1/8 ply parts that are laminated together and then once sanded epoxied to the bow. I also decided to add a cross bar between the knees as there is a large hole in the knees in the perfect location. I had a plastic tube that was almost a perfect fit, but I’m pretty sure it’s a polystyrene tube, and that’s one plastic that’s problematic to bond and paint, so I used some aluminum tube that’s a little smaller that the holes in the knees. I cut the tube down a bit shy of flush, then once I had it tacked in place making sure it was straight, I filled the void with scrap balsa and thick ca, the house thin balsa on the outboard sides to flush up the holes. I still have a little filling and sanding to do on the inboard joints.
I was going to do a bulwarks all round the deck, but in some pics I’ve seen of the real boats there’s a partial bulwarks forward and a partial aft, so that’s what I did. I used plasticard to make up the bulwarks, once glued in place I added 1/16 styrene supports to the aft bulwarks and then used 1/8 by 1/4 balsa for a capping rail. That’s where I’m at now, the next step is to do the same to the forward bulwarks. You’ll notice there’s a freeing port in the aft bulwarks, but none forward. My thinking is since most Springers ride a little bow high at speed, there’s more of a need aft the forward.
Cash

Hi y’all.I was off this past Friday so I did the fwd bulwarks supports and cap rail, built just like the aft. Once I had everything sanded I proceeded to primer and paint the hull. Not going into too much detail but since the push knees are already bonded to the hull, we’ll, there was a lot of masking tape being applied,, removed, then new tape applied elsewhere. I still have a couple of cans of French blue so I decided on a rust red bottom, upper hull and bulwarks French blue, the inner bulwarks and deck light gray,and the push knees are in black. Once everything had cured I primed and painted the Kort nozzle to match the bottom hull and reinstalled it and the prop. Now, im ready to start the hatch covers and superstructure.
Cash

Hi y’all. Got a little done this week. I built up the hatch cover using the free plasticard, very simple structure. I then agonized over what style pilot house I should do-large, small, elevated, tall…?
I decided on a simple 1-2 person house that’s just a little taller than normal. I built it up out of plasticard and reinforced the joints with 1/16 plastic strip. It’s just built up, not sanded much yet. I need to make a decision if I want to do an interior, and if I do how much detail do I want. Once I make that decision, and whether or not I want lighting, I can go ahead with paint, glazing, details and a roof.
Cash

Hi y’all. Been a week or more since last update. Got a little behind as I got my Kriegsfischkutter back in a trade with my buddy Larry, who had gotten it in a trade with me 2-3 years ago when I had only run her twice..he had added lights, did a good job but he likes to run 3 volt bulbs with an external hidden switch. I prefer 6 volt bulbs and a transmitter operated electronic switch, so changed that, and did a little touch up, she’s back in my fleet now, and never leaving-unless Larry makes me another offer I can’t refuse…🤣
So, I got the pilot house painted up, and secured to the hatch cover. At first I was going to “tint” the windows and not worry about any interior detail, but JP talked me into it, so I built up a simple console with sheet plastic and some odds and ends from my fittings stash. Now she needs a roof, a pilot, maybe lights, and some deck equipment.
Cash

So, last week I built up a simple pilots console for the Springers cabin. Did a little measuring, realized I’d need a figure about 4 inches tall at the maximum. I was a little limited as to what I could find fairly quickly, as I want to maiden her by the end of the month, so I checked out Amazon. Tons of zombie, robots, and the like, and a few Marvel and DC superheros, as well as some Star Wars. Found one to my liking..”he’s a motorhead, a nerd, an engineer, and the smartest guy you know…ladies and gentlemen, let’s welcome to the Springers cabin, Tony Stark!! Aka, Iron Man!!!” Tony Stark is one of my favorite characters from the Marvel films, and the figure was relatively inexpensive, so win-win!!
So now she has a pilot, and needs a roof. I fabricated a roof from plasticard, and scored the sides and front to allow a little bevel. Once sanded and filled, I painted the roof to match the upper hull. I then decided that JP is right she needs lights for all the night runs we haven’t done yet. Plus, I need an interior light so Iron Man won’t be fumbling around in the dark and blow a hole thru the cabin..Y’know, safety and all that. I went thru my parts and found a fitting that looks like a modern side light with a slightly tinted lens, and used that as a cabin light fixture. All the lights are set up on one circuit.
That’s where I stand now, the roof is not glued on yet as I have a couple more interior details to make up, then the roof will be tacked on at the corners to allow it to be removed if there’s a problem with the lights. I have a couple more weekends of work to do but she’s getting closer.
Cash

Hi y’all. Last posting I got a helpful comment from Bill saying I needed some separation between the port/starboard nav lights and the aft light. And, I thought to myself, “well, he ain’t wrong!!” So, I cobbled up a short mast with an extended platform for the aft light. Looked decent till I broke it. Now, the roof is glued on, and the main problem with the aft light is if I were able to pull the lamp out, I’ll have a Devil of a time getting the wires back thru the roof and over to the corner wiring tubes. So..I fudged it I used a larger tub split down the middle, to wrap around the damaged and repaired small tube, used a black filled ca to build up the base, made sure the whole assembly was secure, and painted it to match. Not an elegant fix but I can live with it.
I made up some simple rails with brass wires for the sides of the wheelhouse. I used the filled ca to attach, but a little of it got on the outside of the drilled hole. Looking at the mistake it looked a little like an attachment point, so I used the ca on all the rail holes to match. I like it!!
I also made up the aft hatch cover, exhaust and cabin door.
I’m hoping to maiden her this coming Sunday. My plan is to weigh her with batteries, then make up what ballast I’ll need, place it where I think it’ll be needed, then tub test her and adjust ballast there. If I can get that done this week I’ll be able to do a few more details and touch up this Saturday.
Cash

Hi y’all. Didn’t get much done in the way of details, but got enough done Saturday to maiden the Springer Sunday. I did a MUCH better job of bonding the push knees to the hull than I did with my first attempt, however, I wanted a little more security. So I drilled the knees to accept 2 socket head screws each, then counter sunk the holes, so I could screw the knees directly into the bow, then the holes were filled. I had some rubber mat left over from my Banckerts build that I bonded to the knees with black ca. after that it was securing ballast, making a y harness for the twin 3000 mah nimh packs, and finish wiring the lights with a plug to accept an Apex RC transmitter controlled switch.
I have a video I’ll try to post here of the maiden, but suffice it to say it went well. Plenty of power, turns very well, and she stayed dry. She does have the Springer propensity to bury the bow at full power, but not dramatically. I plan to fill the space between the cross bar up front and the deck, that should keep what little water I had coming over the bow in check. I’ll do a few more details too, then she’ll be one of my “keepers”. I really like this boat!!
Cash

Hi y’all. The Springer has maidened, but wasn’t quite yet done, as I wanted to add a few details.
First off, I filled the gap between the push knees at the bow, as my Springer at full bore will bow bow down a little, and the bow wave will just come over the bow between the knees. Filling that space between the deck and cross bar should slow that down. The boat came in perfectly dry inside, but I did it anyway.
I also added a rub rail around the boat with the upper edge of the rail flush with the deck line.
I had some metal etch step parts from my Aeronaut Pilot build left over, so I cut the end tabs off, then used them to make a grate over the rudder hatch. I had a resin bollard from my Taucher build that I glued to the aft side of the hatch, made up a rope from my stash, then took a piece of scrap plastic tree, heated it and made a pintle hook that plugs into the hatch to secure it, the eye of the rope is glued to that. Finally I made up a somewhat decent fire extinguisher from scrap parts, plastic tube and wire and mounted it on the aft corner of the wheelhouse. At this point she’s mostly done, I might build up a small winch for the forward deck.
Cash