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Midwest #984 Cranberry Isle Lobster Yacht

Wystawione przez DWBrinkman ·

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O tej łodzi

And ... the last item salvaged from the Estate Auction.
Built as a static model, but I have every intention of making it a working RC boat.

Komentarze

  1. roycvBronze
    Admirał floty
    Some good points made. Assume the prop tube is just resting in place. To remove I use pliers to grip the tube and a sharp twist will break the joint, then start again. I also pour into the hull a slightly diluted varnish and 'shake it all about'.
    This one is bread and butter construction and even after preliminary checks, the water just poured in.
    Works a treat now but it took time. The temptation was it was on Gumtree for just £12. I could not resist!
    Roy
    Polubione przez USA Corsair and hermank and
  2. FishercatBronze
    Starszy bosman 2 klasy
    roycv is right - when people build static models, they may not use waterproof glue, and the won't waterproof interior spaces - which are no longer easily accessible when the model is completed. Also, the model likely won't have a layer of fiberglass on the outside - which, is pretty much a necessity. The good news is that the model you have doesn't have a lot of truly inaccessible spaces - other than the dead space up in the bow. And you should be able to seal off the exterior of that space.

    The problem is that, if any water gets into the internal structure of the boat - the hull planking - the underside of the decks - the inside of the transom - it will swell and then shrink, and likely warp. Simply coating the outside of the hull with resin is generally insufficient, as it will crack along the seams of the wood. I've had this happen on one boat I tried VERY hard to waterproof.

    You can probably get away with converting the model if:

    1) you pickle the entire interior of the boat;
    2) you run in an area where you are unlikely to get water on deck - and/or you seal the deck, the cockpit floor, and any other place water may splash;
    3) you pack the prop shaft tube with heavy grease (I use the pink Mobil Synthetic grease from a tub - but axle grease or Lucas Sticky should also work - I am sure there are plenty of others). Heavy grease will cut dripping of water up the prop shaft tube to zero, even if you run the boat for hours, and it makes little difference to the load on the motor.
    4) fiberglass the exterior - not an ABSOLUTE must, but close to it, in my experience.
    Polubione przez hermank and Ronald
  3. roycvBronze
    Admirał floty
    Hi DWB, I have converted 2 decorative models to RC and sailing. They both leaked like sieves, glue joints are rarely watertight, often with an insufficient glue line. Mine were a bread and butter build and a plank on frame one with probably more glue joints than a chine hull.

    Interested to know how you get on but do not assume anything!
    Roy
    Polubione przez Ronald and hermank
  4. ScottM1Bronze
    Rekrutuj
    Just curious, do you still have the instruction manual? I picked up model at a garage sale but the manual was missing. I'm currently using the Lobster Boat manual as a basis to get started.
    Polubione przez hermank

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