This model has been on the go for the last three years and is now finally almost complete, this one as per the others is powered by a TVR1ABB steam engine and a 3 1/2" diameter x 6" gas fired boiler.
I have just found this post by accident, as I was trying to find Mobile marine tug boats. This was completed some seven years ago, and still looks every bit as good as on completion. This was down to the current posts on tugs. this one was ideal because the huge lengthy super structure gives excellent access to the steam plant. Mobile marine does have a really good selection of model tugs, although one needs to be a touch physic, to figure out the instructions. The best kit ever has to be the ANTEO from Panart, a double skinned plank on frame kit.
Ye Gods and little fishes Gary,
These are even better than museum or yard model quality😮
Superlative👍👍👍
Would really like to see some video of her huffing and puffing😉
I envy you guys with the knowledge and GUTS to drive your models with true to original steam power. A mystic black art to me.
Cheers, Doug😎
I have just found this post by accident, as I was trying to find Mobile marine tug boats. This was completed some seven years ago, and still looks every bit as good as on completion. This was down to the current posts on tugs. this one was ideal because the huge lengthy super structure gives excellent access to the steam plant. Mobile marine does have a really good selection of model tugs, although one needs to be a touch physic, to figure out the instructions. The best kit ever has to be the ANTEO from Panart, a double skinned plank on frame kit.
The operating servo needs to be fastened to the base plate, with the servo arm securing screw at the same height as the operating rod in the mid-neutral position, in order for this to function properly. Go for the full metal jacket option as per my servos. Regards, Gary.
Hi Nick, and here we go with some sort of explanation regarding the servo for the TVR control. I am afraid I could not find the photos I was looking for which were definitely helpful. So we will have to manage without them. Right, first off you will need to remove the original operating rod with handle. Next, the square rod with the notches cut into it, carefully file the notches flat so that the rod will slide up and down without catching, be careful not to damage the highest and lowest stop, which gives you maximum revs in forward and reverse. You now need to replace the original operating rod with a piece of piano wire approx length 5". I will send a couple of photos and hope you can figure it out with regard to what to do and why. The operating rod needs to slide through the grommet thing on the servo arm. If you have any questions or problems what so ever then get in touch and I will try and help to get it sorted. Regards, Gary.
New tug is the Tollman. I particularly like open bridges. One of the snags with A Q is that the engine sits about 20mm lower than the nearest point to mount a servo.
Hi Nick, I can definitely help you with that problem, as I have invented a method which works really well, having had a lot of teething problems as I have three TVR Engines in various boats. I took a set of photos that explain everything. As I am on my way out I will post them on here later. I promise this will solve your problem. Regards, Gary. ( which MMM tug are you building mine is Lady Jan, with a one-piece superstructure. )
Hi Gary. I have just seen your engine room layout and thinking about adopting your method to operate the reversing lever. Does the operating rod slide in the servo arm fitting as it moves from forward to reverse? It looks a lot simpler than what I have done on the African Queen engine, I have had nothing but trouble with it since I built it...
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These are even better than museum or yard model quality😮
Superlative👍👍👍
Would really like to see some video of her huffing and puffing😉
I envy you guys with the knowledge and GUTS to drive your models with true to original steam power. A mystic black art to me.
Cheers, Doug😎